- Textiles have been an integral part to Indian identity influencing everything from craftsmanship and community to global trade.
- “Textiles provided me a platform to feel, connect and be present,” says the artist Natasha Das.
- Gender perspectives are also reshaping the textile art landscape.
At Delhi Contemporary Art Week, textile art is gaining unprecedented attention, however, the field’s journey towards commercial viability remains a significant challenge for its artists and supporters. Textiles have been an integral part to Indian identity influencing everything from craftsmanship and community to global trade. Despite the rich history, textile art has struggled to capture widespread interest within the art world. However, the recent exhibitions are changing this narrative.
“Threads That Bare,” a prominent feature of DCAW, illustrates how contemporary artists are drawing from India’s rich textile traditions to craft intricate, multilayered stories. The exhibition comes at a pivotal time when curators and galleries are exhibiting a growing number of textile-based shows in the subcontinent. From Vayan- The Art of Indian Brocades, curated by Mayank Mansigh Kaul, at Delhi’s National Crafts Museum (2023), to Sutr Santati at NGMA in Mumbai (2024), and Entwined- Edition 2 by Apparao Galleries.
Artist Natasha Das, who previously worked with oils, transitioned to textiles after finding that traditional painting methods are limiting. Her current work revolves around threads and fabrics, drawing inspiration from Assam’s weaving communities. Das’s piece, “Lahe Land 2,” is a reflection of Assamese culture and landscape, with each thread representing personal and cultural memories. “Textiles provided me a platform to feel, connect and be present.” she notes.
The exhibition also features Geeta Khandelwal and Khadim Ali. Khandelwal has spent decades mastering quilt-making and her works include miniature royal garments from the 18th and 19th centuries, created using traditional techniques. In contrast, Ali’s mixed-media work, “I’m the Third Script 2,” uses embroidery to express his experiences with conflict in Afghanistan and Pakistan.
Sharan Apparao, curator-director at Apparao Galleries strongly believes that while the current market for textile art may seem niche, there is a lot of potential for growth with support from galleries and collectors who value the medium.
Gender perspectives are also reshaping the textile art landscape. Varunika Saraf’s “The Longest Revolution,” from the 2023 CheMoulding show, uses embroidery to explore themes of women’s agency and socio-political change. The focus on women’s contributions challenges the traditional notions of textiles as merely a ‘women’s craft.’
Curator Mayank Mansign Kaul said, “Globally, curators have suggested that this current fixation with textile-based art is also emerging from increased attention to women-based art practices. I personally think there is, overall, a greater interest in materiality and abstraction than before. Or perhaps this is only natural, given the long neglect of the field by the art world.”